Midway in the Mideast Semester

Days here are like weeks and the weeks are like days. Between class, meals, the city, the sights, homework, and socializing, I find myself overwhelmed with things to write and record, but no energy to actually compose my thoughts.

I have seen where David slew Goliath. I have herded sheep. I have gone to synagogues, churches, and museums. I have eaten too much pita and nutella. I have written a 20 page paper on Palestine. I have walked through waist deep water in an ancient tunnel built by Hezekiah. I have wondered streets in Arab neighborhoods. I have sung hymns at the Garden Tomb. I have celebrated Passover. I have danced like an Israeli. I have learned both sides of the conflict. I have painted a mural in a school. I have loved and still love living here.

 

Sedar aka Passover

Our professor breaking bread.

West Jerusalem Market

Various Field Trip Adventures

Lush hills of Israel

Poppies

This goat was such a ham.

My flock of friends

Mashing up some hyssop.

Torah Time

Torah Reading

You never know what you'll find in the grass here.

Food Staple: Pita

Egypt Photos

Near Valley of the Kings

Nile Motor Boat

Camel Adventure

Sinai

Pyramids

Egypt was a Riot.

Our journey into Egypt began in the wilderness. It was not a wilderness of tall evergreen trees, mountains, and high hills, but of desert sand dunes and rocky fields. In between countries we stopped to remember Lehi's family. Alone in the desert we sat after racing down a tall sand dune with powdered sugar like sand. The wind whipped powerfully on our faces whispering of the city we left behind. Around a fire we sang hymns, bore testimonies and roasted marshmallows. The sky was a glow with stars as we departed to the Kibbutz.

At the Kibbutz we were fed a feast of burgers and hotdogs on pita bread with humus. We dined on the floor around small tables and listened to salsa music in a large barn with broken windows, a big bar, and old records on the walls. Outside the barn we fed white horses before going to bed. We stayed in the Kibbutz hotel. The Kibbutz people are like Jewish hippies living an imperfect version of the law of consecration. The next morning we left their compound and rows of date palm trees.

We drove along the crisp clear water of the Red Sea. Numerous hotels and resorts were scattered along the shore and the city of Eilat. The border crossing was right on the water. We unloaded off the bus and walked through security into the Sinai Peninsula and into Egypt. We boarded a different bus and continued on our journey through the desert into Cairo. In our travels we passed under the Suez Cannal. It was strange seeing large ships floating through the desert and to imagine us underneath them and the water.

The bus ride seemed to drag on, but our excitement kept us moving. The buildings along side us began to increase. They were a mix of modern and old tall apartment buildings, all without windows and completely unfinished. Cars swarmed us like bees and we were soon in Cairo traffic. In Cairo, the painted lanes mean little. Drivers weaved in and out of each other in large trucks, sedans, and buses. As the traffic grew the sunlight became smaller. The light was muted amidst the pollution and the haze that seems to rise up out of the Nile.

The Nile brings life to the city with its swiftly moving current feeding tall palm trees and green plantations. We crossed over the Nile and around the corner we caught our first glimpse of the Pyramids. The Sun was a bright red round ball that was sinking behind the Great Pyramid. We all cheered, felt chills, and became overwhelmed with excitement. We drove straight into Giza. The streets were packed with people. The streets are narrow, garbage filled, and the people happy. Our bus parked along side all the other tour buses and we entered into the Pyramid plaza to watch the Sound and Light show. We practically bolted off the bus and ran to take pictures. Darkness soon fell and we took our seats to watch the show.

The show was full of vibrant laser lights, projections, and voices from the past. The Sphinx narrated the show with its old face projected onto its now crumbled skull. The show was longer than needed and we became distracted by the wild dogs fighting and running around us. Like the god Anubus, the dogs still guard the Pharaohs.

After the show we enjoyed a buffet dinner at the hotel. A group of us stayed late at the table talking and telling stores. It was probably one of the better FHE nights I’ve had.

The next morning we drove up to the pyramids. The sky was smoggy and overcast. The air was humid and fields vibrant green. Upon arriving at the pyramids, we bolted from the bus to capture pictures. At the middle sized pyramid we had a blast touching, feeling and rubbing our faces on the limestone blocks of the pyramid’s feet. The stones are huge and locked together perfectly. It was incredible to imagine their limestone and granite polished like the countertops in kitchens today.

We then went to the Red small pyramid. I kissed the outside before entering its dark hallows and slanted ramp. Deep below the earth’s surface and under tons of rock we went. The rooms were crowded and full of humid ancient air.

Outside the pyramids the salesmen waited, with camels, necklaces, statues, and other goods. The salesmen are fluent in foreign languages and tactical sales manipulation. You learn quickly, that nothing is free, and no means little to them. We laughed at their attempts and continued on to other sights including the Sphinx.

It was difficult to leave the shadow of the pyramids and enter the city of Cairo again. At a papyrus shop we learned how they cut the papyrus plant and made paper. After their demonstrated we then bought some artwork. Lunch was set overlooking an Egyptian farm of a small family.

Within the dirt, filth, and poverty is beauty. The people smile and live their lives. The city is a constant shuffle of new construction and decaying matter.

In Memphis we saw the grandeur of Ramesses and later the Djozer step pyramid and temple complex. We entered an old tomb with walls covered in brightly painted and carved hieroglyphics. The Egyptian artists must have spent hours perfecting their form and images.

We then hit the plane to Luxor. Our hotel was immaculate. My hotel room window was about 20 feet from the Nile. Across the Nile shone the lights of the Valley of the Kings. The next morning we went into that valley.

Upon entering the valley a small tram takes visitors up to the tombs. The train goes about walking speed and seems somewhat useless but I guess necessary for some that can’t walk up the hill. The sun was hot, which made us grateful we were there in winter. We entered 4 tombs. Each tomb was unique. Many of the original paintings lined the walls, pillars and ceilings. King Tut’s tomb is extremely small, just a tiny room with one painting. On my right of this tiny room sat the gold sarcophagus cased in glass, and on my left lied Tut himself in-cased in glass. I stared into his hollow black eyes and skull. Like his tomb, he was very small.

After saying our goodbyes to the Kings, we traveled to other temple sights and eventually back to our hotel. After lunch we took a felukah or sail boat up the Nile River to meet our camels. It was like a blind date. We all felt somewhat intimidated and awkward. The camels were all sitting there next to their drivers waiting for us. We all stood in a line and waited to be paired up with our camels according to our weight. Somehow our camels seemed to match each of our personalities. The crazier students got camels that were wilder. My camel was calm and easy to ride, however I did almost fall off when it stood up. We rode the camels by the Nile and through some Egyptian neighborhoods. The people all waved to us and we got sugar cane to chew on right out of the fields. It wasn’t the most comfortable animal to ride, but it was a fun ride.

After our camel ride we took another boat ride back to our hotel. We watched the sun set and slowly made our way home. In Egypt it seems to stay dark for hours even after the sun goes down. The water moved quickly beneath our boat, until the wind ceased and we had to be pulled the rest of the way by a motor boat. I enjoyed gazing unto the water and the starts overhead.

At the hotel we had dinner then crammed into the hotel shuttle to the Suuq or market. I felt safe the entire time in Egypt, except this night. In Egypt the shop workers are extremely bold, persistent, and relentless in getting you to buy. It was overwhelming especially because I was with a group of girls that all wanted to shop in different places. As the guy, you have to really watch out for the girls in Egypt. We were all safe and we ran into many of our fellow students that felt similar to me. We managed to find our way around the streets that were filled with people and families late into the night. We tried to catch the shuttle back, but it never came. A couple also staying at the hotel eventually caught a taxi van with us. In Egypt the taxi vans don’t close their doors and they drive very fast. It was a fun adventure. I sat in the very back and smiled at the day’s experiences.

The next morning we took the motor boat up to the Karnak temple. The boat ride was beautiful. The Egyptian boat kid played some traditional music with its high pitched singing. We all had fun taking in the sights and the Nile. I enjoyed seeing the joy of my classmates on the other three boats around us. The temple is huge and inspiring it even has a sacred lake with fish in it. I felt mystified by its tall pillars with blue paint marks. It made me appreciate our modern temples.

We took a horse carriage ride from the Karnak temple to Luxor. Anciently the temples were connected by a huge avenue of sphinxes. Many of the sphinxes still line the path. Our horse ride was pleasant. We kind of felt like we were in a parade with about 10 carriages all holding Americans moving down the street. The buildings must have been spectacular during its prime.

After lunch, I went back to the market. Since I was with four girls, all the Egyptian shop owners thought they were my wives. We had a better experience this time in the market. I’ve gotten good and bargaining and we had fun joking with the people. One joked that he and I should trade places, since I looked Egyptian, that way he could come to America. It’s difficult to see the effects of poverty. Everyone needs money.

In the evening we took an overnight train back to Cairo. The train was filthy, but fun. We had little rooms on the train with fold down beds. We played cards, laughed, and tried to sleep. We got in around 4 AM exhausted. We then drove to the hotel in Cairo where we learned our plans had changed due to the riots.

The professors worked with our tour guides to allow us to see more pyramids since we couldn’t go to the Cairo museum. We appreciated the time to rest and shower while they planned. We ended up going to the Bent pyramid and another one that stunk like ammonia from bat pee. It was fun though. I was disappointed to not get to go to the museum but I got to be in history.

We returned to our hotel for lunch and we were then on lock down. We watched the news, relaxed, and had the best sacrament meeting I’ve ever been to in a hotel event room. It was difficult to believe that 15 minutes away the protestors were chanting, guns were firing, and life in Egypt changing. We sang hymns, partook of the sacrament, and heard spiritual testimonies and scriptures. Because of the curfew in Cairo, our hotel was packed with guests and tour guides. The hotel felt solemn yet erringly excited.

Being locked in, you wouldn’t have known anything of the riots if it wasn’t for the TV and the stories of those who had been there. I heard no sirens, nor gun shots. It felt odd knowing the internet and cell phones were all shut down.

The next morning we said goodbye to our tour guides. Our guide was limping when he came in to see us. He had gone to the Cairo museum the night before to help protect it and had gotten caught up in the masses and hit twice by rubber bullets. The people seemed sad today. We drove out of Cairo passing the remains of burnt cars on the street and debris. Our security guards had us close our window shades at one part of our journey because of a demonstration outside. They wanted to protect us and keep us from taking pictures. It felt strange being in the middle of this event. No matter what happens though, life goes on. People still get up and go to work. I’m grateful that we could see what we saw when we did. I feel blessed yet helpless in knowing how to help the people and the issues our world faces.  

We headed straight to Sinai. We stopped twice to visit sights where Moses and the Israelites probably rested. In the desert wilderness we were again. The Bedouin desert people greeted us a few times along the way and sold goods outside our hotel. Our hotel was in the middle of nowhere. We were the only guests besides one Asian family. We enjoyed the hotel, the food, and the people. Early the next morning and I mean early at 3 AM we hiked up Mt. Sinai. The hike was long and very rocky. The Bedouin’s have small homes/shops along the trail for you to buy some food and warm up. We finally made it to the top. The final ascend up was the worst part. The large rock steps were difficult to maneuver with the wind beating against you. The top overlook point was freezing. The wind was awful, but we found a shielded spot and we watched the Sun rise. I felt both grateful and accomplished for having been up there. It was an unforgettable experience and helped me visualize Moses’ story that much more. The stories of the scriptures are real. I’ve read them, studied them, pondered them, felt them, and seen their settings.